Fast-Stats are not wireless and all communication is “wired”. The range depends on the gauge of the wires in the thermostat cable. Generally, anything under 800 ft should have no issues. If each Fast-Stat has its own communication wire, there is no limit to how many can be installed in a building.

No, the sender puts off a small amount of heat when the thermostat is calling for a function. The sender must be installed in an uninsulated wall.  Typically, it is left hanging in an empty space behind the wall. If the thermostat is in an insulated wall or on a junction box then a Fast-Stat cannot be used.

No, the two red wires are jumpered internally and it does not matter which one you use. The Common Maker, Model 1000, and Model 9000 will only have one red wire. 

Yes, on our website there are additional wiring diagrams for various types and brands of zone valves. Sometimes the transformer has to be upgraded to a higher VA to handle the increased load.

Sometimes in older houses there are splices in the thermostat wire. Reversing the purple/red connections on the thermostat wire at the receiver should fix this. If the problem persists, please call Tech Support at 1-800-775-4750. 

Reversing the purple/red connections on the thermostat wire at the receiver is recommended. Sometimes in older houses there are splices in the thermostat wire. If the problem persists, please call Tech Support at 1-800-775-4750.

No, the Model 1000 needs at least two conductors in the cable to operate.

Yes, the Model 3000 can be used for heat pump upgrades. However, if you need to use the defrost function on the heat pump, we recommend using the Model 9000.

The Model 3000 was designed to operate this way. Typically “green” is connected to G and it is a redundancy to make sure the fan comes on whenever there is a call for Y, which is typically connected to yellow.

The receiver’s orange wire is only used for setting the receiver voltage, see “Setting the receiver voltage” in the manual for more information. In most installations, the orange wire will not be used. After the Model 5000 is installed and working correctly, the orange wire should be taped back as it is no longer needed.

The O/B function should never be connected to the Model 5000, the Model 5000 does not support heat pumps. The Model 5000 can only be used for heat pumps if there are at least 3 wires in the thermostat cable so the O/B function can be hard wired using a spare thermostat wire.

The Model 7000 only supports two fan speeds, G and Y2. If you want the fan to run faster with a call for Y1, then the indoor unit green wire should go to Y1 fan instead of G.

Yes, if there is no O/B at the indoor unit then the blue wire can be left disconnected and taped back.

The condenser wire that is connected to the “R” on the indoor unit transformer can connect directly to the heat pump module’s red wire using a wire nut. There is a chance that you will need an isolation relay on the heat pump defrost if there is no “R” terminal

The green and purple loops only have to be cut if you are using the optional external thermostat on the outdoor unit’s grey wires. If you are not using that external thermostat you can leave both loops intact. Make sure the main thermostat is programmed for a “cool active” reversing valve.

If the main indoor thermostat is a Wi-Fi thermostat, or if that thermostat has an outdoor temperature probe then it might support fossil fuel/supplemental mode. If the main thermostat supports those modes then it is better to use that instead of an external thermostat. If an external thermostat is not used then both loops can be left intact.

There is a small floating voltage that is on the heat pump module white wire. Depending on the model of heat pump you may need to install an isolation relay between the defrost and the outdoor unit’s white wire.